Thread: torque arms

Well my motor work is basically done, and now I've turned my attention to suspension now that our local track has opened back up. I already have my Strano springs, UMI LCA-relo brackes, w/ UMI LCA's, and a Pavlock Adj PHB. Now I'm eyeing some torque arms, most likely the UMI piece.

Who all has one, and what are the driveablility characteristics of them, as I've heard many variations of vibration, bumpiness, etc.

Also will my True Duals interfere w/ the install and on a scale of 1-10 how difficult is the install?

Any help appreciated!

James

Well I had a spohn adjustable for along time, great piece but adjusting sucked tail and the jam nuts always came loose, also made serious conflict with the exhaust by the rear D/S loop. Then I had a BMR non adjustable for along time and loved it but it was mounted to the trans (it was a stop gap). NOW I have the setup I absolutely love. I kept the non-adjustable torque arm but bought the BMR relocation kit, which can be adjusted to 4 or 5 different heights. Benefits are it was cheaper then buying the really expensive adjustable ones, it replaces the transmission crossmember with a tubular one ao you get some extra chassis strength and exhaust clearance, and you get to keep a full length torque arm which is much quieter and a smoother ride then the littler one's. It doesn't have quite as much staright line bite as the spohn but it does much better in the corners and it doesn't *clunk* when you get on and off the gas. As for difficulty it isn't particularly hard but it is much easier on a lift. I never had true duals so you are on your own with one.

I'll just add this as BATMAN pretty much covered what I was going to say. Get a driveshaft safety loop for the front. I have a friend whose driveshaft snapped on the dyno and took out the torque arm(stock) broke the tailshaft when it rebounded off the floor and put dents and holes in the tunnel, all b4 they could stop the wheels. Plus it is a safety requirement if you plan on going to the dragstrip.

Yeah I should have mentioned I have a UMI D/S loop also

Originally Posted by Batman

Well I had a spohn adjustable for along time, great piece but adjusting sucked tail and the jam nuts always came loose, also made serious conflict with the exhaust by the rear D/S loop. Then I had a BMR non adjustable for along time and loved it but it was mounted to the trans (it was a stop gap). NOW I have the setup I absolutely love. I kept the non-adjustable torque arm but bought the BMR relocation kit, which can be adjusted to 4 or 5 different heights. Benefits are it was cheaper then buying the really expensive adjustable ones, it replaces the transmission crossmember with a tubular one ao you get some extra chassis strength and exhaust clearance, and you get to keep a full length torque arm which is much quieter and a smoother ride then the littler one's. It doesn't have quite as much staright line bite as the spohn but it does much better in the corners and it doesn't *clunk* when you get on and off the gas. As for difficulty it isn't particularly hard but it is much easier on a lift. I never had true duals so you are on your own with one.

Hmm, I have the spohn Adj chassis unit with DS safety loop.. Never had any issues with anything coming loose and only hear a clunk every now and then. I did have to modify my safety loop a little to clear the 4" exhaust though.. Compared to the random tech tranny mount torque arm, I had, the Spohn is 1000 times better..